Two custom choppers parked side by side in a parking lot with the authors posing beside them in bright daylight

INTENTIONAL RIDING IN JAPAN RAIN OR SHINE

Words and images by Adri Law & Becky Goebel

We’ve been back in California for a week now, but part of me is still very much in Japan. I used to think people were a little dramatic when they said a place can change you. Now I get it. A week-plus on choppers exploring a new country has that effect. My best friend Becky and I planned the trip of a lifetime and Harley-Davidson asked us to recount the ride.

“Intentional” is the first word that comes mind when I think about Japanese culture.

The cleanliness stands out immediately, but it’s more than that. There’s a subtle sense of respect in how people live their daily lives, how they treat one another, and how they all seem to care about contributing to the greater good.

Everyone is doing their part, and it results in a place that feels incredibly calm (aside from the trains) and easy to simply exist in.

I could go on about that, but let’s get onto the trip.

  • Adri Law standing beside a moss-covered stone guardian statue in front of a red temple structure with steps and greenery nearby
  • Group of helmeted riders gathered closely in a busy outdoor setting with buildings and a large lantern visible in the background

I USED TO THINK PEOPLE WERE A LITTLE DRAMATIC WHEN THEY SAID A PLACE CAN CHANGE YOU. NOW I GET IT. A WEEK-PLUS ON CHOPPERS EXPLORING A NEW COUNTRY HAS THAT EFFECT.

We landed the evening of April 9 after a long travel day from LAX to Honolulu, then on to Haneda. From there, we jumped straight into navigating the hour-long train ride to Kamakura. Luckily, my travel partner Becky had been to Japan a few times before and handled it like a pro.

We arrived in the sleepy beachside town around 8 p.m. and by 9 p.m. we were settled into our rental and were sitting down to some of the freshest sushi we’ve ever had. By 9:40 p.m., I was having my long-awaited first Japanese 7-Eleven experience.

The following morning we trekked through the rain with our suitcases to Beetle Rider (@beetlerider_japan) to pick up our rental choppers. We were soaked but excited because we knew we were about to do something we’d been looking forward to for months!

The plan was to start riding toward Nagoya for the Joints show, but the weather had other ideas. Instead, we loaded the bikes into the van and hit the road with the Beetle Rider crew, who were also heading to the show.

Cold rain and low clouds followed us along us along what they described as the Japanese version of the PCH. Our first stop was conveyor belt sushi. After checking into a tiny hotel room, we ended up at a spot called Mister Gyoza, where we were introduced to lemon sours, which quickly became our favorite drink of the trip.

  • Becky Goebel seated on a custom chopper with flame-painted tank parked curbside on a sunny street with greenery nearby
  • Adri Law standing between two parked choppers with helmets and bags visible on a paved street with buildings behind

The next morning, it was finally time to ride. Pulling out of the hotel was a little nerve-wracking.

Riding on the opposite side of the road while trying to decipher signs we couldn’t read felt sketchy, but we were too excited to care.

About 20 minutes in, the crew decided to make a pit stop when my bike started giving us some trouble (it wouldn’t stay running!). After a few attempts at a roadside fix, the call was made to load my bike into the van, and Becky would continue riding.

We got to our lunch spot and the crew did their best to source some parts while we continued our drive to Nagoya. We arrived at the Joints show setup day a little later than anticipated, but still had enough time to get our booths ready before calling it a night.

Rider on an orange custom chopper stopped on a roadside with another motorcycle and rider following behind
Riders gathered with parked custom motorcycles in an urban lot with one rider standing behind a bright orange bike
Rider cruising on a low-slung custom chopper along a roadway with a blurred guardrail and water in background
Rider seated on a gold custom motorcycle parked in an open lot with another rider and bike nearby
Rider on a red custom chopper flashing peace sign toward camera while stopped with buildings behind
Rider sitting on a dark custom motorcycle parked on pavement with industrial buildings and cars in background

RIDING ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE ROAD WHILE TRYING TO DECIPHER SIGNS WE COULDN’T READ FELT SKETCHY, BUT WE WERE TOO EXCITED TO CARE.

Sunday morning started early. By the time we got to the venue, the parking lot was already packed with bikes and a massive line had formed outside the entrance. The scale of the show was overwhelming in the best possible way.

Every bike, car, and detail felt intentional and dialed in. The level of craftsmanship and style on display was unreal. Micki, the founder of Joints, was incredibly welcoming and even asked me to do a “Paradise Road Show Pick,” which gave me the perfect excuse to wander deeper into the show and take it all in.

After the show wrapped up, we stopped at a dumpling spot then found ourselves back at the five-story arcade we had visited the night before. It felt like the perfect way to spend our last night in Nagoya.

  • Three riders gathered around a purple custom motorcycle parked on a city street, pointing toward camera with buildings behind
  • Group of riders in helmets standing beside parked custom motorcycles on a city street, talking near buildings and traffic

The next morning, it was finally time to start the real ride. Since my bike still wasn’t fixed (it ended up being a much bigger issue), Beetle Rider hooked Becky up with a backup, their blue-flake show bike with a springer front end. Not exactly subtle, but as long as it ran decent, it would work.

We packed up our bikes and began our first leg of our trip. We headed toward Kiso Valley for our first stretch — about three hours of riding with some stops along the way. That night, we checked into our first traditional onsen of the trip, the first of several we’d stay in along the way. It’s a unique experience and something I’d highly recommend.

The next morning, we found a tiny coffee shop in Nojiri that felt more like someone’s home than a café. The owner prepared simple breakfast sets with coffee, toast, yogurt, and a hard-boiled egg, carefully setting everything in front of us with a warmth that needed very little translation.

She was tiny and sweet, and prepared everything with love and a smile.

She barely spoke English, but still did her best to communicate through a small notebook filled with handwritten phrases. At one point, she asked where we were headed — or maybe where we’d come from? — before handing each of us a small hand-drawn gift and wishing us a safe trip. It was one of those quiet moments that really stuck with me.

Custom motorcycle parked on a paved area with Adri Law  crouched beside it, framed by blooming pink trees and buildings
Becky Goebel seated on a custom motorcycle overlooking a mountainous landscape with greenery and a road curving in the distance
Custom chopper parked on an open paved lot with a helmet resting on the seat and minimal surroundings
Adri Law standing beneath a series of bright red torii gates forming a pathway lined with trees and filtered light
Adri Law and Becky Goebel posing together in a busy outdoor setting with a large red lantern and crowd visible in the background
Adri Law sitting on a custom motorcycle parked in front of a small rural bridge with greenery along the path

WE MADE OUR WAY TOWARDS MT. FUJI, EASILY ONE OF MY TOP MOMENTS FROM THE TRIP. FROM THERE, MORE ONSENS, HOLE IN THE WALL FOOD SPOTS, AND WANDERING INTO PLACES WE NEVER PLANNED ON FINDING.

This was one of our longest riding days. We rode through stretches of small town, farmland, mountains, and city. Since we were down to one phone mount, I took over navigation duties, which forced me to stay fully aware of where we were instead of just following a screen. I ended up loving that part of it.

We made our way toward Mt. Fuji, stopping at a look out for photos with the mountain in the background. Easily one of my top moments from the trip. From there, more onsens, hole in the wall food spots, and wandering into places we never planned on finding, including Dinos, an American diner-themed bar. Who would have thought?

Heading out the next morning, our bikes were not happy with the elevation. At first, my bike was giving us trouble, but minutes later, Becky’s had us pulled over in a lot. Long story short, her spark plugs were toast.

Unfortunately, the spare set of plugs was in the tool roll on my previous bike, so I went off on a solo wild goose chase to a few auto parts stores, armed with the old spark plug in one hand and Google Translate in the other. Somehow, less than an hour later, we were back on the road.

We rode through beautiful mountain roads over to Hakone, made some photo pitstops, and checked into a hotel for the night. By sheer luck, it had underground parking, which came in clutch with the overnight rain in the forecast.

  • The authors standing with Taka outside of his garage beside a custom chopper with flame tank paint
  • Close view of multiple custom motorcycles lined closely together, showing handlebars, mirrors, and painted fuel tanks

Our final ride day started off mellow. After a few scenic stops, we were back in Kamakura by lunch, just in time for more conveyor belt sushi.

We met back up with some of our Beetle Rider friends before heading out to visit our longtime Instagram friend, Taka (@bgtaka). He’s one of the nicest guys and has one of the most incredible collections of American cars, motorcycles, and auto memorabilia I’ve ever seen.

His space is packed but meticulously organized, filled with rows of Knuckleheads, Shovelheads, and Ironheads alongside endless shelves of OEM Harley-Davidson parts, motors, memorabilia, and complete bikes. Seeing it all in person barely felt real.

He showed us around, spent time chatting with us, and even took us to another building he recently acquired and is in the process of building out. Even unfinished, you could already tell it was going to be something special.

That brought us to our final moments with the bikes. We made our way back to Beetle Rider HQ, said our goodbyes to the team, repacked the luggage they had been holding for us, and made our way to the train station.

From there, we headed into Shibuya for the last leg of our trip. We spent our final full day wandering through Shibuya, soaking up every last bit of the city before heading home.

  • Shino seated on a custom motorcycle parked on a city street with a crowd gathered behind and additional bikes nearby
  • Yusuke and Shino wearing helmets standing in front of a crowd with a large lantern in the background

On our final day, we squeezed in one last side quest! Our friends Shino (@pen.1977fxe) and Yusuke (@yusuke_hiramoto108) picked us up, brought us to their house, handed us keys to bikes, and took us out on a ride through the city with a group of 14 choppers before dropping us off at the airport.

It truly was the perfect way to end the trip and I can’t wait to go back!

You can get the full scoop on our trips via our YouTube channels!

Adri: https://www.youtube.com/@adri_law
Becky: https://www.youtube.com/@actuallyitsaxel

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