Roadbook Story: France, Switzerland and Italy.
It’s been a while since we completed the trip, but the excitement is still there – I still feel the buzz of every moment. Before the trip, six months were spent planning the journey, scouring web pages to compare hotels, services and prices, and studying routes. We couldn’t wait to get on the two Road King Classics and the Softail Springer and let the fun begin.
I bought my Road King in 2005, my first motorcycle, my first Harley-Davidson®. Ever since, after a few trips covering around 15,000km, I had been dreaming of a long journey like those I read about in Hog Tales®.
There were three of us: me, my friend Juan Carlos Gorría, whom I had met on my first day on the road with my Spiderman customised Road King, and JJ Maya, with his magnificent Springer with its peculiar cowboy seat. Pablo Neruda said that we should never stop being children, and, like children, we live with hope, and the three of us could not sleep with excitement in anticipation of the journey ahead.
With a turn of the key my Road King roared into life with the most heavenly harmony – the adventure had begun. I set off the afternoon before on a 500km solo leg from Aragon to meet the others in Carcassonne, France.
I spent the night in Jaca, in the Spanish Pyrenees, and awoke to a wonderful spring morning. I left Jaca at 8am to cross the Pyreneesthrough the 8km Somport tunnel, under the ‘summus portus’, which for more than a thousand years pilgrims had crossed on their way to Santiago de Compostela. I had 400km ahead of me to Carcassonne, while Juan Carlos and JJ Maya faced a 600km journey from Estella, in Navarra, to the meeting point.
The journey to Carcassonne is like a journey through the Middle Ages, and brings to mind the religious wars against the Cathars – the pure people. It is as if each stone is telling the tale of centuries of history to the passing traveller, especially at night when the city streets, full of tourists by day, are deserted and enchanted in the moonlight.
JJ and Juan Carlos arrived five hours after me, their jackets spattered with insects and obviously tired after covering 700km in just over six hours. We had a relaxing evening of fine food and drink followed by an early night. In front of us lay 5,000km and 12 days to enjoy marvellous landscapes from the saddles of our Harleys®, crossing the Pyrenees, travelling through the French countryside, driving through the high peaks of Switzerland and Italy, feasting our eyes on the Tuscany countryside and enjoying the coastlines of the islands of Sardinia and Corsica.
The first day of our adventure would see us face the longest leg of the trip that would take us across the easternmost part of France, around Lake Geneva and up into the heart of the Swiss Alps. A leg of about 1,000km, which turned out to be even longer than we had initially expected… We left Carcasonne at 9am, taking our leave to the roar of the twin-cams. The plan was to make up time on the first 800km stretch of motorway to Geneva. The three Harleys cruised through the Mediterranean countryside around Narbonne, the vineyards of Avignon (the town of the Popes), Valance and Chambery, only stopping to refuel, eat, or rest for a while. At 5pm we reached the Swiss town of Geneva and its lake of the same name, which we skirted on its right-hand shore, enjoying the wonderful countryside just as the sun was beginning to set. Now we were more relaxed, having reached the Chateau de Chillon – a beautiful medieval castle very close to Montreux – which seemed to grow out of the shore of Lake Geneva. There was almost 200km to go to Grindelwald.
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Near Gruyères, we stopped to study our position and to re-plan the route. Juan Carlos took the lead. Yet more narrow roads, with the road signs telling us that we were starting to climb up to the Jaunpass, the first pass at 1,500m and gradients of 11
I had the feeling that we had missed the road up to Gstaad, but neither had we come across the motorway to Freiburg. Imminently and unintentionally, at around midnight, and in pitch darkness, we were about to cross the first of the great passes. This was not part of the plan! It still had its element of excitement and adventure, for me more than for the more skilled riders who took the impossible bends with much greater ease, even after we had all spent more than 13 hours in the saddles of our Harleys (how glad I was that I had changed the seat of my Road King Classic for this trip).
The climb was not all that complicated, although I stayed a little behind the others, who were setting a faster pace. Juan Carlos insisted that I take the lead position, but I preferred to stay more relaxed at the rear rather than to have the
The descent promised to be impressive, and the kind of never-ending bends that I was not expecting to come across until we got to Stelvio
The important thing was to remain calm and enjoy the experience. I made my solo descent from the pass and arrived at Interlakenalone and then climbed into the heart of the mountains again. Now only 30km lay between me and Grindelwald.
After more than 1,000km of motorway, passes and rain, the bikes were now in the garage for the next two days for a well- earned rest, which we would use not only to soak up the atmosphere of the Swiss
The day dawned bright and sunny, showing off the
The following day we made another excursion, this time in a delightful cogwheel train, to the Jungfraujoch, one of
We had allowed two days to visit this part of Switzerland and to recover our strength for the onward journey. Early in the morning on the third
No less beautiful was the route we chose that took us through Klosters (1,179m), the Wolfgangpass (1,631m) and the Ofenpass (2,149m). We stopped at the Austrian border very close to Klosters before crossing the Flüelapass (2,383m) where we began to climb
The precipitous slope and narrow road meant that caution was at the forefront of my mind. I wanted to take it gently and enjoy it, even stopping to photograph the frozen snowfields that, in the middle of June, lay around us. At the
The next day we visited Florence, a lovely city with a multitude of elegant monuments. Our last day in Tuscany was a pleasure for the senses. Tuscany lay before us at its very best on the route to the lovely town of San Gimignano. Lunch in
To see Sardinia at sunrise is to see the Mediterranean at its best. Sun, light, sea, mountains and above all, hospitable people who have been welcoming
After lunch in Castelsardo, we continued the journey to Alghero, with a stop in Nuraghe di Palmavera, a first-class megalithic monument of impressive antiquity
It was already around
The penultimate day of our journey dawned, and in about half an hour we had covered the coast road, which took us to Santa Teresa di Gallura. Taking it easy and enjoying the morning sun, we were exactly on time to catch the pretty ferry to the
The arrival by sea at Bonifacio in the south of the island is most spectacular, and from the ferry the passenger cannot avoid the feeling that he is a crew member from a bygone age, from a privateer seeking the shelter of one of these coves or inlets. We got off the ferry, ready to cross the island from Bonifacio to Bastia in the north, from where we would catch another ferry at the end of the day, which would take us back to the European mainland.
On the recommendation of some people in Porto Vecchio, we were able to find a magnificent white sand cove at Solenzara, a few kilometres to the north. A good meal in La Dolce Vita, and then a gentle ride north, just short of 150km, for which we had a whole day. We enjoyed every second of it.
After a long tailback to get into the port, we got our bikes onboard an impressive ferry, which was to take us on an overnight crossing of almost nine hours to Toulon.
We arrived at Toulon and began our final day of the tour. Another 900km or so lay between us and home, taking us through the Marseilles area very close to Toulon and through Provence. Almost 10 hours later, we arrived home at the end of the evening and were reunited with our families.
I love my Harley more with every day that passes. Not just the bike itself, but everything involved with it, including the charming people. In a little short of 15 months, I have covered 22,000km.
On this tour through France, Switzerland and Italy, there is no doubt that I enjoyed every single kilometre, I learned a lot and I was able to share wonderful experiences with my travelling companions.
I am very happy to own a Harley- Davidson, and to do what I enjoy doing most with it: eating up the kilometres, the landscapes, getting to know wonderful places and people, all the while enjoying the harmonious roar of my Twin-Cam as I ride.